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Payments & Financing

Does Washco Have Financing Options?

Yes. Washco Offers our customers 2 great Financing / Leasing options.

For more details visit our Financing Page here

What types of Payments do you Accept?

Payments options:

  • You can select your preferred payment method at checkout.
  • We accept secure payments for both local & international customers via Credit Cards, VISA Debit Cards & E-Transfers. 
  • We also accept wire transfers for large orders.

Orders & Returns

Shipping & Tracking

Shipping Details:

  • We ship most orders same day if placed before noon, or next day at the latest!
  • We offer FREE shipping on most orders within Canada over $250 CAD and $200 USD in the USA
  • Average Shipment ETAs are between 1 to 4 days. If you require your order faster, we can look at expedited shipping for an additional fee, just give us a call and we will help! click here for our full Shipping Policy

Shipment Tracking:

  • When your order is shipped you will receive a tracking email to the email address used for your order.
  • You can also log in to your order through our website if you signed up an account or click on the link from the receipt you were emailed.
  • If you have not received a tracking email more than 5 business days after placing your order, please check your junk mail or spam folder as it may be there due to the external links in the email.

What is your Return Policy?

We can accept returns and exchanges within 30 days of delivery. Your equipment must be unused, in the same condition that you received it and in the original packaging in order to be returned or exchanged.

For our full return policy details: click here


Training Videos

Visit our Washco YouTube Channel for great training videos, product reviews, and links to our suppliers' videos.

Pure Water Systems 101

The water from our taps is not actually pure, it contains dissolved minerals, particle pollutants from natural sources that are measured as TDS (Total Dissolved Solids). These minerals are why tap water leaves spots and streaks on glass and other surfaces.

The Pure Water process runs the water through a purification process that removes all of the TDS from the water. This leaves the glass free from any films or streaks and there is nothing for the dirt, dust, and other pollutants to stick to. No squeegees, soaps, or other cleaning techniques can give this spot free result and ease of use.

The pure water filtration system filters the water from the source and then runs it up an aluminum or carbon fiber pole which is used to clean the surface.

The Pure Water method has a number of significant benefits over traditional methods:

  • The glass stays cleaner longer: since Pure Water leaves no film behind for the dirt and dust to attach to this means it will take much longer for any build up to occur on the glass surface.
  • Environmentally Friendly: Pure Water is just that, nothing but water… there are no soaps or other solutions that are applied to the buildings or get in the soils, no recovery systems needed.
  • It is significantly faster, with no ladders to climb up and down and no buckets to manage, the amount of surface that you can clean is far greater in the same amount of time. Meaning that you can charge the same but get the jobs done much quicker.
  • The best benefit is that this method is much safer. Completing all of the work from the ground reduces the risk of injury which in turn reduces the Worksafe/Workers Compensation liability and your overall insurance risks.
  • When using a Pure Water Pole there is no raising the brush up and down for soap, no rinsing, no climbing ladders, the process is considerably faster and much safer. Having no ladders to climb or fall off reduces the single largest liability in this industry

System Stages: 

Stage 1 - Sediment and/or Carbon Filters: These inexpensive filters remove any “insoluble” particles and chlorine present in the water. It basically removes visible dirt, sediment and chemicals which could harm the reverse osmosis filter down the process.

Stage 2 - Reverse Osmosis (RO): The RO stage does the majority of the heavy lifting in this process. It has a very fine filter membrane, so fine that the single “atoms” of the minerals dissolved in the water cannot pass through it but it allows the much smaller H2O water molecules to pass through. The water can now be removed from the minerals, but we need to get rid of the removed minerals before they pile up and block the filter so we drain them out of the system through the drain line that will run constantly while your system is in use.

Stage 3 - Deionization (DI): This final stage takes the water and removes all other impurities out of the water. As you can see from the process and the details in this section, if you are using a DI ONLY system the water has to be very clean (very low TDS) before you start or the DI will have to do all of the work of the other filters and you will burn through DI very quickly, which could be a very costly issue. With the multiple stage system, the other filters have already removed 95% of the impurities so the DI resin now only has to deal with a maximum 5% of the raw water TDS. This is the whole point of the multiple stage system; it makes the resin last 20 times longer than if we were to use a DI ONLY system. The resin that is by far the most expensive consumable involved in this whole industry so having the right system is critical to your business. The water is now ready to use (below 15 ppm) and the system is ready to pump this water up the poles to wash the glass or solar panels.

Water-Fed FAQs

Proper Water-Fed Set Up

In order for systems to function to their fullest it's important to set it up correctly and provide optimal water flow from tap to brush. The following are the set up requirements for each system.

Important for all Set Ups - Do Not:

  • Use expanding hoses, these hoses do not create enough pressure flow for your systems.
  • Use 3/8 or smaller hose as you system supply hose, not enough pressure will reach your system. More details below.
  • Connect your 5/16 Pole Tubing directly to a multi-stage system, there needs to be a hose from your system to your pole tubing. More details below.

RO/DI Systems (Multi-Stage):

Water Supply > Supply Hose > System > Feed Hose > Reducer > Pole Tubing > Brush

*Do not connect your 5/16 Pole Tubing directly to a multi-stage system, there needs to be a hose from your system to your pole tubing. Otherwise the pressure may damage your reducer or chock the flow resulting in insufficient pressure up to your brush.

DI Single Stage System:

The DI only system should be set up the same way as above for optimal performance, but you can also run the system with the Pole Tubing connected directly to the system.

Water Supply > Supply Hose > System > Reducer > Pole Tubing > Brush

It is not recommended to run long distances of the 5/16 Pole Tubing as this is thin tubing and will wear out much quicker than proper hose.

Troubleshooting - Poles & Brushes

There are very few things that can go wrong with a water-fed pole and brush, and most are easy fixes, here are the most common issues:

Manage Clamp Damage:

  • The Pole Clamps are designed to both secure your pole in place and protect the pole sections from damage. When pulling sections out ensure that you do not expose the Red Warning Line as this will cause the clamp to snap to protect the pole from cracking. 

Plugged Jets on Brush:

  • If one or more of your jets are plugged or not flowing as well as the others, there may be something blocking the flow in the jet. This can happen as the opening on the back of the jet is 3 times larger than the front so debris can go up the tube into the jet.
  • The solution is simple: take the tubing off the back of the jet and place it over the front of the jet, then turn on the water and the debris will come out of the larger opening on the back side of the jet.

Your Brush has 2 sets of Jets but only 1 Supply Tube:

  • If your Brush has both Pencil Jets (circular) and Fan Jets (flat slot) then it is designed to be used with just one set of Jets or the other. You connect the Supply Tube to one or the other for use. Do not try to use all 4 Jets at the same time as the results will not be good.

The Water Pressure is too low:

  • This issue can have many possible causes.
  • The first thing to check is the water pressure from the tap, is it sufficient to drive the water to the height you are trying to achieve.
  • Check the system to ensure there are no filter issues, see the Troubleshooting - Systems section for more details.
  • Ensure there are no leaks at the fittings or connections with the hoses and tubing. Also check to ensure there are no leaks in the hosing or tubing.
  • If you are working above 3 stories, depending on the water pressure and system you have you may require a boost pump to reach additional height.

How to Clean a Brush:

  • You can clean a brush with any simple soap solution, the key is to rinse the brush thoroughly before using it again on glass so that all soap residue is completely removed. 
Troubleshooting - Pure Water Systems

There are very few things that can go wrong with a pure water system and most of the solutions are simple to figure out. The following will guide you through the most common troubleshooting issues.

The bypass hose is leaking water when the system is set to run:

  • This is normal, when the bypass valve is closed (system in normal operation) there will be a continuous stream of discharge water from the RO Filter. This water is the filtered wastewater that flushes out of the RO to keep it clean, it will run as long as the system has any water flowing through it.

There is no water coming out of the system:

There are a couple of issues that could be causing this, we suggest checking them in this order:

  • 1. Ensure the bypass valve is closed. If it is open the water is no going to the rest of the system.
  • 2. Check the supply hoses for leaks.
  • 3. Is there a visible leak in any of the filters, connections, or tubing? If there is a leak at the top of any of the filters it may be the rubber gasket, remove the filters and ensure the gasket is straight.

If none of that fixes the issue the next step is to determine which filters are causing the block:

  1. Remove the pre-filters (Carbon and/or Sediment), once the filters are removed screw the empty filter housing back on the system, ensuring the rubber gaskets are straight, and turn on the system to see if the water is flowing through. If it is then replace your pre-filters.
  2. If above did not work then remove your RO Filter next, again close up the empty filter housing and turn on again to see if the RO was stopping the water flow. If this was the issue then replace the RO filter.
  3. If that did not work the last step is to do the same thing with the DI Filter.
  4. After you have determined which filter is stopping the water flow and replaced those filters then everything should be back to normal operations.

In the unlikely event that you tried all of the steps above and it did not resolve the issue, please call us for additional trouble shooting.

The water pressure is low coming out of the system

Pure Water Systems are designed to work to a specific height (see product descriptions) at a good water pressure from the water source. If the water source/tap is low pressure or you are trying to work at a height greater than your system is designed for, then you may need a Boost Pump to add to your set up. Tucker has 2 great options for Boost Pumps in a 110V or 12V configuration.

  • The first thing to do is to ensure that there is actually a problem, once the entire setup is connected the 5/16 pole tubing can carry the water pretty far under minimal pressure, so set everything up and check to see if the system is performing as expected at the height the system is designed for. Remember: the water should only be shooting out the brush 5 feet before hitting the ground, any more pressure than that is too high.
  • The first thing to check is the water pressure out of the tap, if the pressure is not good it will create low pressure in your system.
  • The next thing to check for is any leaks in the supply or feed hoses.
  • Check for any leaks in the system or filters.
  • The next step would be to check all the filters to ensure there is no blockage slowing the water down. See the Section Above “There is no water coming out of the system” for full details on this step.

In the unlikely event that you tried all of the steps above and it did not resolve the issue, please call us for additional trouble shooting.


One of the connections or tubes are leaking

If the weather is colder out such as early spring or fall/winter then there is a chance that some of the connections may have drips, this is completely normal and wont impact the performance of your system. It is the result of the brass fittings and the tubing contracting at different temperatures resulting in some small gaps. Alternatively in the summer these parts will expand in the heat and if they were too tight would split so the minor leaks on colder days are necessary.

If one of the connections are leaking more that should be expected, pop that connection out and wipe the end off with a dry rag then push it firmly back into the connection, it may have just loosened. All of the connection and pressure fit so the harder you push it in the better the connection.

When do I change my filters:

For details on Filter life see the Help Center Topic: “Filters – How long do they last?

Troubleshooting - Window Spots/Streaks

If you are new to water fed pole pure water window cleaning you need to know that as with all things there is a learning curve to doing it right. The first thing you should do is read this guide, then the second thing is to go online and watch some great YouTube instruction videos on water fed pole cleaning techniques.

Initial System Flush Out:

  • If the quality issue is with your first couple of cleans it may just be the system flushing the manufacturing impurities out of the filters.
  • Like any new water filter, the process of flushing the system out before production use is required.
  • If the issue persists after flushing the system for 30 to 60 minutes, then look at other potential solutions listed.

Test the Water:

  • There may be an issue with the system filter. To determine if the issue is system related test the TDS (total dissolved solids) in the water with the TDS meter that came with your system.
  • First test the source water directly from the tap to see what your local TDS levels are.
  • Then test the water coming out of the System after running it for 5 minutes.
  • If the filtered water is showing as higher than 15 ppm on the TDS meter then there may be an issue with your filter. Contact your retailer to discuss solutions.
  • If the TDS is showing below 15 ppm then the issue is not System related.

Too Much Pressure:

  • Another common issue is too much pressure going through the water-fed pole. This can leave streaks and spots on the surfaces.
  • When holding the pole full collapsed in front of you at a 90 degree angle to the ground the water should be hitting the ground 5 to 6 feet in front of you. If it is shooting farther than that = turn the pressure down.

Window Glass Types:

  • There are two types of glass, hydrophilic and hydrophobic. Hydrophilic likes water will allow the water to run off the glass as a sheet. Hydrophobic is not a fan of water and it will beads up and sits there.
  • It is important to know what types of windows you are working with, many new construction and commercial windows are now made with a Hydrophobic coating on them which cause water to turn to droplets on the surface rather then sheet across the glass. This will likely cause the water to leave spots on the clean glass surface since it is not rinsing away but is rather drying in spot.
  • If you know you are dealing with Hydrophobic Windows then you should be using a fan jet brush with the water pressure set to nominal levels as outlined above.
  • If you don’t have a fan jet brush you can try turning your water pressure way down to reduce the amount of pooling and spend extra time during the rinse process.
  • It is important to note that some hydrophobic windows come out really well every time if the steps are followed above and others just never seem to dry without leaving spots.


If the system is functioning with low TDS levels and the pressure is set to the standards above, then any issues with the cleaning are a result of technique. If you are getting spotting or streaking, then the issue may be from the following (as outlined by

  • Dirty Frames: This is one of the main causes of spotting. On first cleans ensure you wash the top frame well before moving on the glass. If possible, do all the house frames first, then go back and wash the glass once they have either dried or stopped dripping. Once this has been done, subsequent cleans are easy. Dirt hides on the top frame and pure water will seek it out and leave runs on the glass while they are still dripping.
  • Soap Residue: Soap residue in the window seals will cause spotting, the only way to avoid this is to rinse well, it may take a few cleans to completely remove the years of [detergent] from these seals.
  • Poor Quality Paintwork: Poor quality paintwork on the window frames will cause real problems. The best way to test the paint is to run your finger along the paintwork. If it leaves a white dusty mark on your finger you are going to have problems. Wash the frames thoroughly first and then once they have dried go back to clean the glass, taking great care not to touch the top edge of the window frame.
  • Very Dirty Glass: If you are doing a first initial clean and the glass hasn’t been cleaned in years, then firstly you should price accordingly. (Double for the first clean) Wash all windows and frames. Then go back to the beginning and do them again. However, just the glass this time, not the frames.
  • A Dirty Brush Head: Make sure that the brush heads are kept clean, where possible. Leave them soaking in pure water overnight or between jobs. Don’t leave brushes propped up against walls, it will pick up dust and transfer it to the glass. If you must leave it against a wall, make sure the head is turned away from the wall.
  • Bird Muck: This can be a problem to remove, especially if it’s baked on the glass. My advice is to do these windows first, soaking the offending stuff well. If it doesn’t come off on the first clean you can come back to it once the water has softened it a bit. You can always tilt the brush head a bit and use the edge of the brush to rub it off or get an extension pole with a scraper attached to it to remove it. (Never scrape dry glass, always wet it first).
  • Aluminium Frames: These can cause problems, especially if they are the painted sort and the paint has oxidized. Again, do the finger test. If there is oxidization, I would decline to do them with WFP as the water runs off them looking like milk. If you do them using WFP, Wash the frames thoroughly first and then once they have dried go back to clean the glass, taking great care not to touch the top edge of the window frame.
  • Air Vents: These vents are often situated directly above the glass and contain large amounts of dust and dirt. Avoid vents like the plague. If water gets inside these vents it will drip for ages leaving your nicely cleaned glass with dirty streaks.
How long will my Filter last?

This is a common question with no easy answer, the following guide will explain Filter life, but many factors will impact the results.

Carbon or Sediment Filters:

  • These inexpensive filters are designed to remove harmful elements from entering your RO and damaging the expensive filter. These filters should be changed every 1 to 2 months during regular use.

DI (Deionization) Filters:

  • The DI Filter is consumed by both the quality of water run through it and the time that it is used for, so there is no exact time that can be given. 
  • The easiest way to determine if you need to change your DI Filter is to measure your TDS regularly, once the TDS is over 25ppm then you should change your DI Filter/Resin.
  • The chart below shows average volumes of water and time of use based on the TDS (quality of water). 

The following is a high level guide for performance, the higher the TDS = the less Gallons of water processed or time for use.

Single Stage Systems:

  • 600 TDS = 100G or 3 Hrs
  • 400 TDS = 150G or 5 Hrs
  • 200 TDS = 300G or 12 Hrs
  • 100 TDS = 600G or 26 Hrs

3 or 4 Stage Systems:

  • 600 TDS = 800G or 24 Hrs
  • 400 TDS = 2500G or 85 Hrs
  • 200 TDS = 3400G or 115 Hrs
  • 100 TDS = 13000G or 400 Hrs

RO (Reverse Osmosis) Filters:

  • The RO Filter is the most expensive part of your system and if maintained properly will last for years in your system.
  • You will know when your RO needs to be replaced as the system will stop flowing as the membranes of the filter fail.
  • Maintaining and winterizing your system are important steps in keeping your RO functioning.
Which is the right sized pole for me?

There are a few things to keep in mind when considering the length of pole:

  • Most Pole manufacturers measure their poles in 'reach' which is usually adding the average user reach of 4' to the actual length of the pole so the user will know what the maximum height the pole will reach (example: a 30ft reach pole is approx. 26ft long)
  • It is important to not only consider the height you need to work at a site, but also the additional distance you will need to stand away from the building to clean. Obstructions around the building such as balconies, awnings, gardens, hot tubs, etc, will add additional length requirements to your pole.  
  • Since Tucker Carbon Fiber poles are very light and telescopic, you can easily shorten the length of the pole if you don’t need all of the height for particular jobs, while still having a longer pole when required for other jobs.
Brushes 101

Tucker offers a great selection of Water-fed Brush options

Tucker has been producing quality brushes since 1957 and are known for producing the worlds best window cleaning brushes 

The following brush types all come in both Standard Size (12") and XL Size (18"):

The first thing to discuss is Jet type, there are 2 types:

  • Pencil Jet (round) create a straight stream, these jets are the most common and are used for the majority of window applications.
  • Fan Jets (flat) create a wide fan spray which help prevent water pooling for windows with hydrophobic coating (which are rare).
  • All Tucker Brushes come with different Jet configuration options, such as 2 Pencil Jets, 4 Pencil Jets, 2 Pencil & 2 Fan Jets, 4 Fan Jets, etc. The product descriptions will detail the configuration options.

Brush Types:

  • Nylon Brushes: are a light weight, general purpose Water-fed brush and is ideal for any skill level window cleaner.  This American made brush is ideal for general cleaning and with the dual trim nylon bristles it gets into the corners very efficiently. The Nylon Dual Trim 2 Pencil Jet Standard Sized Brush is the brush that comes with all Tucker Pole Kits.
  • Boars Hair Brushes: when extra scrubbing is needed this natural fiber brush is the one for the heavy duty jobs. Many customers use this brush for siding, railings, gutters in addition to dirty windows.
  • Hybrid Brushes: are a great balance between 2 brushes above, a Dual Trim brush with Boars Hair in the Center and Nylon on the higher Outer Trim. This brush gives you some extra scrubbing power with the corner flexibility of the Nylon.
  • Phantom Brushes: are ideal for solar panel cleaning and extremely dirty windows, with Boars Hair on the Outer Trim and stiff nylon in the center makes the scrubbing action fairly aggressive compared to others. Fitted with 4 pencil jets, built in SWIVEL and Rinse Bar complete the set up for those looking to rinse FASTER.
  • Alpha Scrubber: is the ultimate commercial grade polyester scrubbing pad for jobs requiring heavy cleaning. This is technically not a traditional brush, but rather a thick scrubbing pad that comes with replaceable pads.
Maintenance & Winter Storage


To keep your pure water system running optimally you will want to ensure regular maintenance check are done by the users:

  • Periodically check the TDS meter levels. If the TDS levels are above 30ppm then replacement of the DI filters is required.
  • You should replace your carbon filters regularly. These filters are cheap and replacing them every 1 to 2 months will keep the rest of your system running more efficiently.
  • Check your system when in use to ensure that none of the fittings are leaking and repair any leaks as required.
  • If the system is dropped or dented, open up the system to ensure that the RO or DI filters are not cracked or damaged.



If you will not be using your system for a couple months or you just plan to use it a few times this season, then be sure to follow these tips:

  • Ensure that the system is stored somewhere that it will not freeze. For Long Term or Winter Storage see the next section.
  • Remove the Carbon or Sediment Filters. These low-cost filters need to be replaced every 1 to 2 months and just replace it with a new one during your next use.
  • Keep your DI and RO Filters full of water. If your DI resin is exposed to water, then dries up all the resin will be “dead” and you will need to replace the filter before your next use.
  • Run water through your system every 1 to 2 weeks. If the water in your system is not flushed out the standing water will get stagnant and bacteria will likely form in your DI and RO Filters making their performance deteriorate. Flush the system to keep it clean.



If you are putting your system away for a few months or getting it ready for the winter, then these are the steps for you:

  • Open up all of the water lines and drain valves as equipped to allow all of the water to drain from the unit.
  • Remove the Carbon or Sediment Filters. These low-cost filters need to be replaced every 1 to 2 months and just replace it with a new one at the start of your next use. Drain all of the water our of the filter housing.
  • Remove the DI Filter, leave it full of water, and place it in a zip-lock bag with a wet paper towel. Be sure to storage it somewhere it will not freeze. This will keep the DI resin inside the filter wet and moist. If your DI resin is exposed to water, then dries up all the resin will be “dead” and you will need to replace the filter before your next use. Drain all of the water our of the filter housing.
  • Open up the RO housing and remove the RO Filter. Drain all of the water our of the filter and the housing.
  • Once all of the old water is drained, use a RO Storage Powder (like RO Preserve from Tucker, click here to go to the product) to protect your RO system from bacteria forming in your filter and destroying it in the offseason. These powders are usually mixed with 1 gallon or pure water and poured directly into the RO Filter housing with the Filter inside. Ensure you follow the instructions with the RO Storage Powder.
  • Follow the steps above if you are storing your system in a place where it will not freeze over the winter. If you have to store the system outdoors or in a place that will freeze then follow all of the above steps but rather than mixing the RO powder with a gallon of water, use a gallon of RV Antifreeze. This will protect your system and prevent freezing and cracking.


IMPORTANT: If your manufacturer’s manual provides any instructions that differ from the suggestions above, follow the instruction provided from the manufacturer for their specific piece of equipment.



As temperatures get close to freezing ensure that your pump systems are either completely emptied of water after use or stored in an area that does not drop below freezing. Failing to properly store your pump could result in water freezing and expanding which will damage the unit.

Soft Wash FAQs

Pressure Wash & Gutter Vac FAQs